Showing posts with label gardening. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gardening. Show all posts

September 5, 2021

Art from Water Pollution

Connecticut artist Kat Owens makes a stunning statement with her beautiful hand-sewn murals using trash collected from our waterways.


The UCONN Master Gardener booth at the Haddam Neck Fair is hosting Owens' amazing murals to help visitors understand the serious pollution affecting our coastal waterways. 

Using hard-to-recycle debris picked up from the shoreline, Owens created panoramic murals of various species of shoreline life. The impact is sobering to see, knowing the harm that these materials cause to our creatures.

Visitors were amazed to learn that the murals were created from trash, children especially were enthusiastic to see all the discarded items that were used in the displays, and had fun identifying them.

The day's favorite murals were the large shark and the sea turtle. Smaller murals showed birds and other fish.


One large mural of an octopus was not created by Owens, but inspired by her work.

See this wonderful display at the fair through Monday, September 6, and also learn more about our environment and how you can contribute. Help preserve Monarch butterflies with the free milkweed seeds we have. Learn about several new pests arriving in Connecticut, and see photos of the invasive plants we are constantly fighting. Talk to a Master Gardener about your garden or problems you might be having. We are there to help!


September 27, 2019

October in the Notheast garden

Toni Leland

winterberry, ilex, shrub, boulder, fall gardenDon’t those cool breezes feel fabulous? Today I saw the first “V” of geese high in the sky, their voices echoing through the trees through the neighborhood. Fall is my favorite season, a panorama of color and change as the earth prepares to rest for a while. But not for us gardeners! We’ve enjoyed the fruits of our labor all summer, and now it’s time to clean up after the party.

If you haven’t done so already, get those hardy spring flowering bulbs into the ground: tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and the like should
hyacinth, bulbs
be planted now. To protect these tasty morsels from rodents through the winter, try placing barricades over the planting site, using chicken wire or hardware cloth, old window screens, boards, or plant saucers weighted down with rocks. Several bulb-dip products also claim to repel pests.

begonia, tender bulbWhile you’re rooting around in the soil, dig your tender bulbs and tubers, and give them a chance to dry a little before storing them. Gladiola, dahlias, begonias, and cannas need to be out of the ground
before it freezes. Ideally, the foliage should be yellow and withering by now; cut off the stalks to about 8 inches above the bulb/tuber/corm, then place in a dry location for about 2 weeks. When the stalk is completely dry, knock off any remaining soil from the bulb/tuber/corm, and store in a cool (not cold) dry place for the winter. Begonias and dahlias should be stored in slightly moist peat moss; gladiolus corms can be simply placed in a paper bag. Canna tubers should be lightly wrapped in newspaper and loosely packed in paper bags.

houseplant, weeping fig, ficus, treeDid you give your houseplants a summer vacation on the porch or in the garden? If so, bring them in right now! The longer they stay outside this month, the harder the shock when they are moved
indoors. If they’ve been out in the open, move them to a sheltered spot (a covered porch or deck) for a day or two. Check them for insects–especially whiteflies–and, if need be, spray with organic insecticidal soap to eliminate any pests.

If you’re like me, you couldn’t resist those huge exotic tropicals that
mandevilla, tender, tropical, pinkgrow and bloom profusely. Bougainvillea, mandevilla, banana plants, elephant ear–gorgeous, but sadly not winter hardy here. Want to try your hand at keeping them? You might have some luck with one of the following: 1) if you have a sunroom or heated greenhouse, the plant will maintain active growth; 2) try taking cuttings to root for new plants in the spring; or 3) put the plant in a cool dark place and allow it to go dormant.

Once you’ve taken care of the individual plants that need special attention, it’s time to focus on the more general chores. Continue to water any new plantings or perennials that were divided and moved last month; remember your shrubs and young trees, as well. Continue mowing as long as the grass is growing. If you can, reseed and repair dead areas as we go into what is hopefully the rainy season. Another round of weeding will help your landscape’s appearance, as well as stave off Nature’s last efforts to reseed for spring. And lastly, clean leaves and debris from your flower beds and lawn. Slugs and other undesirables hibernate under this dark, moist decaying matter, and clumps of leaves left on turfgrass will kill it, leaving ideal places for weed seed to take up residence.

hand tools, gardening
Think you’re finished? Not yet–clean and store your garden tools so they’ll be sharp and in good working order next spring. It’s a good idea to get into the habit of cleaning tools on a regular basis throughout the season. After each use, remove soil from digging tools; moisture in the soil will rust and pit the metal cutting surfaces. If you wash your tools, dry them thoroughly before storing. Keep an oily rag in your garden tote to wipe down pruners, loppers, shears, and clippers after each use. Before storing for the winter, rub linseed oil into the wooden handles of your rakes, shovels, and hoes; spray or wipe the metal parts with either household oil or a lubricant like WD-40®. When spring comes, you’ll be glad you did all this in the fall.

And now, you can curl up with a good gardening book!

gardening books

June 25, 2019

Garden Pests: Slugs and Bugs

by Toni leland

Slugs. They are disgusting and downright destructive. After this soggy spring, they've taken on plants they would not have touched in the past. Things like marigolds. We plant marigolds to repel insects, not attract them! Sunflowers are usually left alone, but not this year.
Sunflower damaged by slugs
Poor sunflower!
I try to practice what I preach: use natural methods to protect the environment. I started with sand. Heavily applied around the base of the plants. Next morning, it was clear that hadn't worked! So I bought diatomaceous earth. It seems to work, but once it gets wet, you have to reapply it. So, every time I put some down, it rained. Plus, it is very unattractive to have your flower beds filled with snow white powder.

Okay, the old beer in a saucer trick. I never put much store in the idea, but I decided if it didn't work, I'd just drink the stuff and let the slugs have the garden. Check out my first morning's catch!
Slugs in beer
Slugs bellying up to the bar.








Of course, you have to dispose of the critters every morning, and keep the saucer filled. But it seems to be slowing down the damage. Maybe the sunflowers will win after all. (Unfortunately, the marigolds were so badly damaged, I doubt they'll do much more than die.) For more than you ever wanted to know about slugs, read my article Slug Those Slugs which also contains more ideas for control.

Next obnoxious and damaging pest coming up this month is Japanese Beetles. These beetles will strip a shrub or tree in a matter of days when the adults are at peak and breeding. I talk about the life cycle and susceptible plants in my article Visitors Without Visas: Japanese Beetles (Popillia japonica).

Japanese Beetle (Popillia japonica)
Japanese Beetle (Popillia japonica)
 One of the biggest controversies here is whether or not to use pheromone traps. Most Extension offices will tell you not to, as the scent used in the traps will attract beetles from blocks away. That's not what you want. Also, it's been stated recently that turf damage from the grubs is much worse in yards where the traps were used the previous year.

Personally, I watch carefully each morning to keep tabs on emerging adults. Hand-pick and destroy when there are only a few. If you have a huge number, then protect targeted shrubs with cheesecloth or row covers. The insects are highly active when it's around 85 degrees (F) and calm. Check with your state extension office for the recommended time to apply the grub killer. Most will advise putting it down at the end of July when the new eggs are hatching under the grass.

Oriental Beetle (Anomala orientalis)
Oriental Beetle (Anomala orientalis)



The Oriental Beetle is also showing up about now, but not in the huge numbers seen with the JB. The most damage is caused by the larval stage, which eats the roots of the grass. The adults feed on roses, phlox, and petunias.

Careful monitoring of your gardens each morning can save you a lot of frustration, and hopefully, a lot of plants.

April 17, 2017

Tick Season Is Here

by Toni Leland

As I crawl around my landscape beds, clearing leaves and debris, delighting in each and every small green shoot I discover in this earliest part of spring, I realize that it's again time to watch for ticks. Having had a serious case of Lyme Disease a few years ago, I can tell you that prevention of tick bites is an important part of being a gardener.

For those of us who want to spend every waking minute out in our yards and gardens, there aren't many things that can deter us. To get around the nuisance of biting insects, and especially disease-carrying ticks and mosquitoes, we need to get a head start on the season.


Deer Tick (Ixodes scapularis)
public domain photo, Wikimedia Commons
Tick Season officially arrived in Connecticut this month. Not officially because someone said so, but because I have removed two ticks from my person in as many weeks. And I've only been out in the gardens about four times!

The most recent critter was one of the teensy tiny ticks that are known in this area as deer tick (Ixodes scapularis). These nasty little arachnids are vectors for Lyme Disease, Babesiosis, and Ehrlichiosis; finding one embedded in your skin is not a happy thing!  There is no vaccination for Lyme Disease, and the recovery time can be quite prolonged. According to the CDC, about 300,000 people contract the disease each year.

How Do I Remove a Tick?


On searching the Internet for ways to protect myself, I came across some interesting information and advice from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. First, I wanted to remove Mr. Tick. I'd heard many folk remedies for doing this, but I wanted advice from the experts.

Ticks should be removed with tweezers by grasping the insect as close to the skin as possible and pulling straight up. They don't come willingly and there's a good possibility of leaving some bits of mouth parts in your skin. However, CDC stated that it wouldn't hurt to leave it and the skin would heal after cleansing the area with alcohol.
Lyme Disease bulls eye rash
Classic bulls eye rash with Lyme Disease. Photo from CDC.

What's important is to make a note of when you received the bite, then watch the area carefully for anywhere from 3 days to several weeks. If a rash develops – especially a distinctive bulls-eye – see your doctor immediately. Or if you develop a fever or painful joints, but no rash, that could also indicate Lyme Disease or one of the other tick-borne illnesses.

How Do I Protect Myself?


Now – how to enjoy our gardens without endangering ourselves and our pets? Even if you own indoor pets, it's possible to bring ticks in on your clothing and then they find your sweet Muffy or Poochie.

Repellents containing DEET will protect you from biting insects for several hours; treating clothing with products containing permethrin will add protection, and the product remains active through several washings.

What I found interesting was the suggestion to toss your outdoor clothes into the dryer and tumble on high for 10 minutes. This would kill any ticks that managed to hitch a ride. CDC strongly recommends showering within 2 hours of coming indoors and then checking yourself carefully for any ticks that might have already latched on. Especially in your hair. I saw a recent suggestion to use a sticky lint roller over your clothes before entering the house. Any critters clinging to your clothes are snatched right off.

So, arm yourself with the right repellent, post a note on the back door to remind you to do a tick-check, and plan to enjoy your summer without any problems.

Happy tick-free gardening!



April 5, 2017

10 Things To Do in the April Garden

by Toni Leland

Across New England, one hears a collective sigh of relief each day that dawns with warmer weather. Some regions are happier than others, but the promise of spring arrives in April and gardeners are seen poking through leaves and inspecting shrubs. For most of this month – at least in the colder parts of Connecticut – we'll be cleaning up, planning, possibly planting early-season seeds such as peas, and dreaming.

What needs to be done this month?

    1– Inspect your property for winter damage. Heavy snow and ice might have taken a toll on shrubs and trees. Identify damage early and determine what needs to be done. Broken limbs will need to be pruned or sawed off cleanly. Broken shrub branches should also be pruned just behind the break. If you're not comfortable with these jobs, be sure to enlist a knowledgeable landscaper or arborist.

    2– Early pruning of dead wood and thinning branches on shrubs should be done after buds begin to form. Dead wood is easier to identify at this time. Cut back any remaining perennials that weren't cleaned up last fall, but wait until new growth appears on woody ornamentals such as Montauk daisy, lavender, butterfly bush, etc.

    3– Some mulch and leaves can be removed now from hardier plants such as Stonecrop and emerging spring bulbs. Clean up iris beds and discard dead foliage in the trash because the iris borer lays its eggs in this debris. Resist uncovering any tender perennials just yet. April can be unpleasantly cold at night until about the third week, depending on your locaton. Northwestern Connecticut and hilly regions will stay colder longer. Southeastern and shoreline gardens are less likely to be surprised by a night freeze.

    4– If hydrangeas or other shrubs have significant buds, keep a sheet handy in case night temperatures are predicted below freezing. Once the buds are frost-bitten, they'll die and the shrub will have to start over.

    5– Weed! Yes, the never-ending chore starts early, especially if you want to get a head start on the winter perennial weeds. These hardy plants continue to thrive even under mounds of snow. Hairy bittercress, Henbit, Chickweed, and Creeping Charlie are at full-steam-ahead now; the bittercress is blooming and setting seed already. With the ground so moist, these weeds are easy to pull.

    hairy bittercress, purple deadnettle, common chickweed
    (Left to Right) Hairy Bittercress, Purple Deadnettle, Common Chickweed (Leland Images)
    6– Ornamental grasses should be cut back to 6 inches now, before new growth emerges in May. Don't cut too low – leaving a base for the plant gives it strong support when fully grown.

    7– Landscape beds are easily expanded now while the soil is moist, but take care not to dig if soil is heavily saturated. Use this time to plan what new plants you'll use in your gardens. Draw up a paper blueprint, marking the existing plants and make notes about light and water requirements for each area.
    hosta
    Hosta is easier to divide when small
    (Leland Images)

    8– As tall-growing perennials begin to emerge, use this opportunity to set your stakes and supports, especially for plants like peonies and oriental lilies.

    9– Now is the time to divide large clumps of ferns, grasses, and hostas as they emerge. 

    10– Finally, be sure to protect those new sprouts, shoots, and buds from the deer. Colorado State University Extension recommends this recipe, and I've used it for years with great success.
      Being prepared for the growing season will make your gardening so much more enjoyable.

      March 14, 2017

      Garden to table at home

      by Toni Leland

      RECIPES FROM A KITCHEN GARDEN is another wonderful cookbook from Renee's Gardens. This is the original cookbook by Renee Shepherd and Fran Raboff, and it's every bit as good as their latest publication, More Recipes from a Kitchen Garden, which I reviewed last year.

      "Fresh vegetables have their very own special allure, and these recipes are first and foremost a celebration of garden fresh ingredients," say the authors. And nothing could be more true of this book.

      From Beans to Chard to Eggplant to Tomatillos, and everything in between, the recipes are fresh and interesting and, for the most, very simple. Just listen to these delicious-sounding names: Lemon Thyme Bread. Indonesian Zucchini Salad. Vermouth Braised Fennel. Over 145 pages are packed with tested recipes, all beautifully illustrated with line drawings, and packaged in a manageable sized 6x9 book.

      For the home gardener or the avid cook, this book is a keeper!

      November 3, 2016

      Feeding the Birds During Garden Cleanup

      by Toni Leland
      Finches on Purple Coneflowers
      Finches on Purple Coneflowers

      Fall is the time for garden cleanup and, for those naturalists who advocate not cutting back perennials, the chore is an easy one!

      Tidying the garden beds is a task that has several benefits:
      • The garden looks nicer during winter (most popular reason for many gardeners)
      • Prolific self-seeding plants will populate your garden with unwanted volunteers
      • Clearing away debris on the ground eliminates hiding places for unwanted pests like voles, mice, and many insects that overwinter.
      • A clean, stark palette allows a gardener to assess the health of shrubs and perennials, and make plans for new plantings and moving things around.
      Cutting back those perennials has one large drawback: we are removing a natural source of nutrition for our winter birds.

      Here's an easy solution!

      Perennials with good seed production can still be used for our feathered friends. Simply cut them back, leaving long stems, then tuck the "bouquet" into shrubbery around your garden.
      Seed heads in shrubbery
      Purple Coneflower seed heads in Burning Bush

      Birds are prey animals. If you spend much time watching birds at a feeder, you'll notice that they take a bite, look around, take a bite, look around. Birds never feel safe out in the open, so one rule is to place your feeders near shrubs or trees where the birds can take cover.

      The same goes for those sheaves of seed heads. Tucked into the branches of a shrub, the birds will feel safer while they stock up on fuel.




      Seed heads in shrubbery
      Black-eyed Susans in Forsythia


      A few examples of long-stemmed plants that are bird favorites:
      • Purple Coneflower (Echinacea)
      • Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia)
      • Sweet Hyssop (Agastache)
      • Zinnias
      • Gayfeather (Liatris)
      • Beardtongue (Penstemon)
      • Goldenrod (Soladago)
      • Joe Pye Weed (Eupatorium)
      • Sedum 
      Seed heads in shrubbery
      Sweet Hyssop in Burning Bush

      Our gardens contain many other food sources for the birds, many of which we leave for the winter, but getting the most out of your seed-producing plants is an added bonus.

      September 22, 2015

      Gardening Problems

      by Toni Leland


      This is the raw truth! More on this subject in an upcoming post.

      June 14, 2015

      A Garden Adventure


      by Toni Leland
      We found our dream home on a dreary March day in southeastern Ohio – the kind of day that gives real appeal to the term "hibernation." In the hills above a large lake, an acre of mature trees sprawled over a steep slope behind the house and, where the land leveled out below, dormant planting beds formed dark brown borders along the deck, the white picket fence, and the house itself.
      My pulse leaped with delight – a new frontier filled with mysteries soon to emerge with the warmth of spring, promised to be lurking just around the calendar corner. The house had been vacated the previous year, so by mid-April, we'd finished the deal. Though I didn't know what was already planted at the new house, I was determined not to leave many of my favorites behind. I began a flurry of garden-related activity at our home in town, impatient to begin my life in the country. The ground was still too cold to dig, but I could at least go to the new house and begin cleaning up and making plans.
      At ten o'clock on a breezy April morning, armed with all my garden tools, a camera, sketch pad, and a list of the plants I would move from the old place to the new, I headed out of town to spend the day in my new garden. I methodically walked the property, making sketches and notes, taking pictures, and fantasizing about the magnificent gardens that would soon grace our new home. The temperature was chilly, but the sun and my enthusiasm kept me going.
      Being the organized creature that I am, my next chore would be to clean out the garden shed and make it my own. I had some difficulty prying open the rusty latch on the double doors. It was one of those arrangements for use with a padlock, where a flat piece of metal on one door slips over a flat knob on the other door. Finally, I was able to get it unstuck and opened the doors to look inside. Of course the shed was filled with junk, and I set about hauling it all out. After four trips, I was too hot, so shrugged out of my jacket and hung it on the deck railing. Once the shed was empty, I arranged my tools along one wall, then stepped outside and closed the doors, taking care not to close the latch. It would need to be replaced with a new one that worked properly.
      I spent another hour pottering about the property, soaking in the quiet and seclusion of life in a rural setting. No traffic, no factories, just the occasional far-away bark of a dog, or the drone of a small airplane overhead. I would love living here.
      Realizing I'd need to take the shovel back home with me, I returned to the garden shed. Pulling the wooden door open, I went inside. I'd taken two steps when I heard the heavy thunk of the door closing behind me. But worse – the sound of metal against metal. The shed was dark inside except for a faint line of light through the crack around the doors. I took a deep breath and pushed against the door. It didn't budge. I shoved harder, hearing the metal latch scraping against its counterpart. The doors wouldn't open.
      I stepped back in stunned disbelief. I was locked in a garden shed beside an empty house on a huge lot in a secluded neighborhood. My cell phone was in the pocket of my jacket hanging outside. I held my watch up to the faint light by the door. It was only two o'clock ­– it would be at least a couple of hours before my husband wondered what was taking so long.
      I sat down on an old milk crate and contemplated my predicament. Other than smash down the door – if I even could – I had no choice but to wait until my husband came looking for me. Outside, my cell phone chimed several times, then fell silent. For the next thirty minutes, I sat in the dark wondering how I could have gotten myself into this ridiculous situation. Suddenly, I heard a heavy engine rumbling outside, then the unmistakable voices of children. A school bus! I jumped up and hammered on the door, shouting "Help! Someone help me!" The engine sounds faded down the road and the kids' voices disappeared. My phone rang again and my frustration turned to tears.
      I sat down again and shivered as the April cold began to creep into my body. What if my husband didn't worry until it got dark? I'd be really cold by then. Another twenty minutes passed and I heard voices again, only this time I heard the tenor of a man's voice. I jumped up and pounded on the door. "Hello? Open the door! Please!"
      Footsteps scraped on the decking, then I heard the low murmur of two men talking. Suddenly, I wasn't so sure about who might be on the other side of the door. It certainly didn't sound like my husband.
      The latch pieces clanked and I held my breath, staring at the doors as they slowly began to open. Seconds later, I stared at two county deputies framed in the doorway, their hands poised above their gun holsters.
      "Ma'am, would you step out of the shed, please?"
      Overwhelmed with relief, I stumbled forward. "Oh boy, am I glad to see you!"
      They both stepped back. "Ma'am, please stop right there. What are you doing here?"
      I blinked. "What? I live here, I–"
      "Ma'am, this house is empty and there's a realtor's sign in the front. May I see some ID, please?"
      At that moment, my husband's truck pulled up onto the grass beside the house and he hurried toward us. Fifteen minutes later, the officers left after explaining that a neighbor had reported seeing someone prowling around the house.
      For as long as we lived there, every time I entered that shed for something, I thought about my garden adventure. And yes, we fixed that latch.

      May 9, 2015

      Starting Your Seeds Indoors in Early Spring

      by Toni Leland
      seed packets
      This year, for the first time, I was organized enough to get my vegetable and flower seeds early enough to actually start them indoors! I found a great little portable greenhouse that didn't take up too much space, and set it up near a south-facing window. I'd never tried starting seeds as early as the nurseries, but with a lovely large selection of organic and heirloom seed packets from Renee's Garden, I wanted to give this a go.

      Why would I suddenly decide to change the way I garden? Well, for one thing, I had the privilege of reviewing Renee's Garden Cookbook, and the recipes made me want to try all sorts of new varieties.

      Also, recent news about pesticides used on nursery plants made me very nervous about buying ready-to-plant stock. I love my butterflies and bees, the pollinators that frequent my gardens. I didn't want to worry about neonicotinoids and other chemicals hurting these creatures. So, buying guaranteed organic seeds seemed a good answer.

      Most of all, I love seeing things come up in the spring and, with this past winter's brutal pounding, I needed something to give me hope that spring would really come! A personal indoor greenhouse was just the ticket.
      indoor seed starting


      I did make one mistake, however. I started much too early for our Connecticut Zone 6. I planted all the seeds on March 21, never dreaming they would sprout in just a few days! That's certainly a great endorsement for Renee's seeds! Fresh and fertile, and every seed sprouted!

      Anyway, soon the seedlings were growing like crazy and I had no way to plant them until the end of April. As they grew larger, I moved them to bigger containers (yes, those are yogurt pots), continuing to rotate the pots every day to give them equal light. Still, many of the seedlings were hard to transplant because of their legginess. The tomatoes, zucchini, and butternut squash were fine; some of the flowers will bear watching.


      seedlings

      This was a fun experiment, but I think next year I'll wait until early April to start the seeds!

      March 3, 2015

      Preparing for Pollinators in Spring Gardens

      by Toni Leland
      Bumblebee on Stonecrop sedum
      The news hasn't been good about our pollinators. Insecticides, herbicides, and destruction of habitat are among the culprits that destroy or reduce our bee and butterfly populations.

      According to The Xerces Society, "Nearly 75% of all plants on earth require animals for pollination." That's a big responsibility for those creatures we have around us and possibly take for granted.

      Columbine (Aquilegia)
      Columbine
      What can we do right now?

      Plant spring-blooming flowers in your landscape, especially if there are no fruit trees or early shrubs. Some good suggestions are:
      • Columbine
      • California poppies
      • Sweet alyssum
      • Larkspur
      • Bachelors' buttons
      • Clarkia
      • Cerinthe
      • Cilantro
      • Lenten rose

      Plant containers with pansies, primroses, hyacinths, tulips, and daffodils and place them strategically in sheltered spots in your garden.

      Primrose (Primula)
      Primrose
      These plants "...will sustain bumblebees, miner bees, and other native pollinators until the summer nectar and pollen sources become plentiful."

      Information and inspiration for this post courtesy ezfromseed.org

      February 28, 2015

      Heirlooms or Hybrids?

      Sliced beefsteak tomatoes
      by Toni Leland

      So now that I'm all fired up by reading Renee's Garden Cookbook, I'm ready to seriously consider what to do in the garden. Once the three feet of snow melts, of course!

      Last year I planted an heirloom tomato called Brandywine, a luscious pink tomato that was so sweet, I liked it. That's right, I'm not a big fan of tomatoes, but this one made me realize that my distrust of tomatoes had nothing to do with the fruit, and everything to do with the source - namely, grocery stores.

      As the gardening frenzy begins to set in, I'm making the decision to grow my plants from seeds this year. All the news coverage about the use of neonicotinoid insecticides makes gardeners wary of buying plants from anyone other than established and revered nurseries. Neonicotinoid insecticides have been targeted as the possible cause of honey bee colony collapse, as well as reducing some bird populations. Not to mention, do we want to eat this stuff? Other than buying only organically grown plants, we are faced with growing our own from quality organic seeds. And the choices for both methods are plentiful.

      Anyway, the beautiful heirloom tomato of last year has me all excited, so I decided to do some research. Renee's Garden has just about everything a gardener needs to know, so I started there. Renee's article about the differences between hybrid and heirloom varieties focuses heavily on tomatoes, and now I'm well-informed.

      For instance, heirloom "...means a variety, that is at least 50 years old, and that has been preserved and kept true in a particular region." Heirloom varieties are always open-pollinated, which means the plants are pollinated by insects and wind, in a specific place under specific conditions to maintain that variety's characteristics. Renee explains everything much better than I do, but I like the concept of having a tomato that has been loved and protected for so many years.

      Did my grandmothers grow Brandywine tomatoes? I'd like to think so.

      Heirloom tomatoes
      photo courtesy Renee's Garden



      February 25, 2015

      Renee's Garden Cookbook – A Terrific Collection of Unique Recipes



      Renee's Garden cookbook
      by Toni Leland

      This is one of the nicest cookbooks I've seen in a long time. Beautifully illustrated with images that make your mouth water, the recipes are new and innovative, many using not-so-common garden ingredients. In my opinion, one of the best features of the book is that with each garden ingredient, the authors include a little sidebar with tips for growing and harvesting.

      Recipes for well-known vegetables include things like "Roasted Green Beans with Thyme, Sweet Peppers and Orange" or "Lindsay's Winter Squash Curry Coconut Soup." Yummy. 

      For the adventurous, try "Fennel, Golden Beet, and Mango Salad with Citrus Dressing", "Meringues with Lavender Custard, Berries and Mangoes", or "North Beach Stuffed Summer Squash."

      The book is a nice size – 7x10 – with crisp, readable text over 155 pages. A comprehensive index and excellent table of contents makes the book very easy to use. Renee's Garden Cookbook would make a fabulous gift for any cook or gardener.

      November 26, 2014

      Winter Blooming Plants: Holiday Cactus, Amaryllis, Poinsettias, and Paper Whites


      Amaryllis 'Desire'Something about blooms and fragrance during the winter months gives us a little boost that assures us spring's promise can't be too far away. Whether a gift Amaryllis or Poinsettia arrives on your doorstep, or you treat yourself to a bulb-forcing kit, the color and fragrance of these blooms will fill your heart and home with cheer.

      Several plants bloom during the winter months, some more prolifically than others, depending on where you live. We'll be discussing the most common and easiest to grow: Amaryllis (Amaryllis Hippeastrum spp.); "Thanksgiving," "Christmas," or "Zygo" cactus (Schlumbergera spp.); bulbs to force such as hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis) or "Paperwhites" (Narcissus tazetta); and the much-loved Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima). These plants all have origins in tropical areas, but have been coaxed to adjust to the conditions in most homes. They all require cool room temperatures and filtered light, and some also require some advance preparation such as chilling.

      The name Amaryllis springs from the Greek word meaning "to shine or sparkle". These luscious blooms do more than that—they fill a room with their fabulous color and size, but most varieties have no fragrance. Native to tropical regions of Central and South America, Amaryllis bulbs are easy to grow and they are readily available. 
      Amaryllis 'Nymph'
      A beautiful variegated Amaryllis. photo: Toni Leland
      A large, firm bulb with many root buds on the base will perform well. All you need is a pot slightly larger than the bulb (Amaryllis likes to be pot-bound), good drainage, and quality sterile planting medium. About 6 to 8 weeks before you want it to bloom, plant the bulb with the top third above the soil line. Water once from both the top and bottom, taking care that no water gets into the top of the bulb. Place the pot in a room-temperature location, away from direct sunlight. Do not water again until green growth appears. When that happens, place the pot in a tray so that you can water it from the bottom about every 3 days; excessive watering will cause the bulb to rot. Once up, the leaves and stem will grow quickly, providing a veritable slideshow of transformation. Most Amaryllis bulbs produce four blooms within 2 to 3 days of each other; these will last several days to a week if the plant is in a cool room away from direct light. Additionally, removing the anthers containing pollen will prolong the bloom. When the show is over, these wonderful plants can be over-wintered and encouraged to bloom again the following year.
      Thanksgiving Cactus (Zygo)
      A Holiday/Thanksgiving Cactus.
       photo: Peter Coxhead (Wikimedia Commons, GFDLv1.2)

      Another beautiful winter bloomer is the cactus (genus Schlumbergera) known by many names: Thanksgiving cactus, Christmas cactus, Zygo cactus, holiday cactus, or crab cactus. (The plant that blooms in the late fall and winter months is not the same as the Easter or Whitsun cactus, which is of another genus—Hatiora.) Interestingly, the Schlumbergera cultivars are divided into two groups: S. truncata which flower earlier and are what we know as Thanksgiving cactus, and the Buckleyi Group (S. russelliana) which flower closer to Christmas. Though the two cultivars look similar, the Truncata Group have yellow pollen and stem segments with pointed teeth, while the Buckleyi Group have pink pollen and rounded stem segments with more symmetrical teeth.

      These much-loved holiday plants are found in their native habitat on trees or rocks in southeastern Brazil's coastal mountains. They have been cultivated as ornamental plants since the very early 1800's, and today's Thanksgiving or Christmas cactus is relatively easy to grow, maintain, and propagate. All the cultivars require low light (no direct sunlight) and consistently lightly moist free-draining, organic-rich soil, such as peat or leaf mold. Day length controls flowering: plants should be in complete darkness for about 12 hours in order to generate bud formation; temperatures below 60˚F (16˚C) will slow the process. Be sure not to overwater, which will cause all the buds to drop off. Want to grow another plant? And another? Simply twist off a short piece of stem (2 or 3 segments long) and allow to dry for up to a week. When the broken end has "hardened off," insert the piece into growing medium and place in a warm spot out of direct light.

      Narcissus Paperwhites
      Narcissus Paperwhites are excellent bulbs to force for
      winter bloom.
      photo: Beezhive on Wikimedia, GFDL v1.2
      Fragrant bowls of Paperwhites, tulips, hyacinths, crocus, or daffodils can brighten even the dreariest winter day. The easiest way to have these beauties in your home is to purchase a kit from a garden department or floral gift shop. You can also buy your own bulbs, choose your own container, purchase planting medium, find the perfect rocks or marbles, and embark on a few weeks' preparation for the final display. Paperwhites are highly fragrant and have the benefit of not needing to be chilled before planting. Tulips, hyacinths, crocus, and daffodils must be potted and chilled for between 15 and 17 weeks in order to force the bloom. Chilling space can be an unheated garage or shed, a cold frame, or a refrigerator (although bulbs dry out quickly in a refrigerator). Once the bulbs have formed an adequate root system, bring them in to a cool location until active growth begins, then move to a warmer location. Do not overwater.

      Last but not least, December's darling—the Poinsettia. 
      Poinsettia 'Mottled Susan Reimer'
      "Mottled Susan Reimer" Poinsettia. photo: Toni Leland
      This beauty has been documented back to the 14th century, but came to the United States in 1825 with Mexican Ambassador Joel Robert Poinsett. The traditional reds and whites are lovely, but we now have over 100 varieties from which to choose—purples, pinks, marbled, spotted, variegated. Oh my. Check out Not your grandma's Poinsettia!

      Choose one or all of these beautiful winter bloomers and brighten up those dreary days.